Home maintenance checklist

A wood deck that's exposed to sun and rain needs a new coat of stain or sealer every couple of years to keep water out and stop rot.

What you'll need

• Deck cleaner
• A stiff-bristle brush on a long handle
• A garden hose, or a pressure washer on low pressure with a wide tip
• Sandpaper or a pole sander for rough spots
• Deck stain or sealer
• A stain pad, roller or sprayer, plus a brush for railings and edges
• Painter's tape and rags

Time

4 to 6 hours of work over 2 to 3 days, to allow drying

Steps

1. Check the forecast. You need about 48 hours without rain and temperatures within the stain's range.
2. Clear the deck and sweep it.
3. Look for loose boards, popped nails and soft spots. Fix or replace them first.
4. Apply deck cleaner and scrub, especially in areas with mildew or gray, weathered wood.
5. Rinse thoroughly. If using a pressure washer, use a wide tip and low pressure, and keep it moving so you don't gouge the wood.
6. Let the deck dry for at least 24 hours.
7. Sand any rough or raised spots, then sweep again.
8. Tape off the house siding and anything else you want to protect.
9. Apply the stain to a few boards at a time along their full length, doing railings first and the floor last.
10. Wipe off any puddles or excess with rags, as the stain's label directs.
11. Let it dry for 24 to 48 hours before walking on it or putting furniture back.

Oily stain rags can catch fire by themselves. Lay them flat outside to dry, or soak them in a sealed can of water before throwing them away.

Gutters carry rainwater away from your foundation. When they're packed with leaves, water spills over and can damage the foundation, siding and basement. Clean them in spring and again after the leaves fall.

What you'll need

• A sturdy ladder and a helper
• Work gloves
• A plastic gutter scoop or small plastic trowel
• A bucket or tarp
• A garden hose with a spray nozzle
• A leaf blower with a gutter attachment (optional, lets you work from the ground)

Time

1 to 3 hours

Steps

1. Lay the tarp under the section you're starting on to catch debris.
2. Set the ladder on firm ground with a helper holding it. Don't lean it against the gutter itself.
3. Scoop out leaves and gunk into the bucket. Use plastic, since metal tools scratch gutters. Move the ladder often instead of reaching.
4. Or, from the ground, use a leaf blower with a gutter attachment to blow out the debris.
5. Flush each gutter with the hose, working toward the downspout.
6. Check that water runs freely out of every downspout. To clear a clog, spray the hose up from the bottom or down from the top.
7. Check that the downspouts empty at least 4 to 6 feet away from the foundation, and that the gutters aren't sagging or pulling loose.

Your refrigerator gets rid of heat through its condenser coils. When they're covered in dust, it runs longer, uses more power and wears out sooner.

What you'll need

• A vacuum with a brush attachment
• A refrigerator coil brush
• A screwdriver, if the kick plate is screwed on

Time

20 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Find the coils. They're either on the back or behind the kick plate (the grille at the bottom front).
3. If they're on the back, pull the refrigerator out carefully. Watch the water line if it has an ice maker or water dispenser.
4. If they're at the bottom, unclip or unscrew the kick plate.
5. Brush the dust loose from the coils and around the fan, then vacuum it up.
6. Vacuum the floor where the refrigerator stood.
7. Replace the kick plate, plug the refrigerator back in and push it back into place.

Hard water leaves mineral scale inside a tankless water heater's heat exchanger. Scale cuts efficiency and can trigger error codes or damage the unit. Most manufacturers recommend flushing once a year, more often with very hard water.

What you'll need

• A small submersible pump
• Two washing machine hoses
• A 5-gallon bucket
• About 4 gallons of undiluted white vinegar, or a descaling solution recommended by the manufacturer
• Isolation valves with service ports on the heater. Most installs have these; if yours doesn't, a plumber can add them.

Time

1 to 2 hours

Steps

1. Turn off the power to the heater. For gas models, also turn off the gas supply valve.
2. Close the hot and cold isolation valves.
3. Slowly open the service ports' pressure relief caps, with a towel ready to catch water.
4. Connect one hose from the pump's outlet to the cold-side service port. Connect the other hose to the hot-side service port and run its free end into the bucket.
5. Pour the vinegar into the bucket and set the pump in it.
6. Open both service ports and run the pump for 45 to 60 minutes so the vinegar circulates through the heater.
7. Turn off the pump, close the service ports and dispose of the vinegar.
8. Flush with fresh water: open the cold isolation valve and the hot-side service port, with its hose running into an empty bucket or a drain, for about 5 minutes.
9. Close the service ports, remove the hoses and replace the caps.
10. Clean the inlet water filter screen, if your model has one.
11. Open both isolation valves, open a hot faucet to bleed out the air, then turn the power (and gas) back on.

Check your model's manual first. Some manufacturers have slightly different steps.

Sediment settles at the bottom of a tank water heater over time. It cuts the amount of hot water you get, makes the heater work harder and shortens its life. Flushing it once a year clears it out.

What you'll need

• A garden hose long enough to reach a floor drain or outdoors
• A flat-head screwdriver or adjustable wrench, if the drain valve has no handle
• A bucket

Time

1 to 3 hours, mostly waiting for the tank to drain, plus 1 to 2 hours to reheat

Steps

1. Turn off the heat source.
   • Electric: switch off the water heater's breaker.
   • Gas: turn the gas control knob to Pilot or Vacation.
2. Close the cold water supply valve on the pipe going into the top of the heater.
3. If you can, wait a few hours for the water to cool. Water from the tank can scald.
4. Attach the hose to the drain valve near the bottom of the tank and run the other end to a drain or outdoors, lower than the valve.
5. Open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house, ideally upstairs. This lets air in so the tank drains.
6. Open the drain valve. If the flow stops after a minute or two, sediment may be clogging the valve. Close and reopen it a few times.
7. When the tank is empty, open the cold supply valve for about a minute to stir up the remaining sediment, then close it and let it drain again. Repeat until the water runs clear.
8. Close the drain valve and remove the hose.
9. Open the cold supply valve and let the tank refill. It's full when water flows steadily from the faucet you opened. Then turn the faucet off.
10. Only now turn the heat source back on. Never switch an electric heater on while the tank is empty, because it will burn out the heating elements.
11. Check the drain valve for drips.

A yearly professional tune-up catches worn parts and refrigerant problems before they break down on the hottest day of the year. It also keeps the system running efficiently, and many manufacturers require it for the warranty.

What you'll need

• A licensed HVAC technician
• Your filter size and the age of the system, if you know them

Time

1 to 2 hours, plus scheduling the visit

Steps

1. Book the visit in early spring, before the busy season.
2. Replace the air filter beforehand, or ask the technician to.
3. Ask the technician to check:
   • Refrigerant levels and pressures
   • Electrical connections, capacitors and contactors
   • The blower motor and belt
   • The condensate drain line and pan
   • The outdoor coil and fins
   • Thermostat calibration
   • For gas furnaces, the burners, flame sensor, heat exchanger and carbon monoxide levels
4. Ask what they found and for any recommended repairs in writing.
5. Write the date and anything they found in this task's notes.

Before the watering season starts, check that every sprinkler works and sends water where it's needed. A broken head can waste a lot of water.

What you'll need

• A small flat-head screwdriver for adjusting heads
• Slip-joint pliers
• A few flags or stakes to mark problem heads

Time

30 to 60 minutes

Steps

1. If you shut the water off for winter, turn it back on slowly.
2. Run each zone manually from the controller.
3. Walk each zone while it runs. Look for heads that don't pop up, spray crooked, mist (pressure too high) or barely reach. Mark any problems.
4. Look for puddles, soggy spots or bubbling water, which suggest a leak underground.
5. Clear grass and dirt away from heads, and gently push down any that stick.
6. Adjust spray direction and distance so water stays off sidewalks, driveways and the house.
7. Replace broken heads or nozzles.
8. Update the controller's schedule for the season, and replace its backup battery if it has one.

Washing your home's exterior once a year removes dirt, mildew and algae. It makes paint and siding last longer and keeps pests away. Good cleaning comes from the detergent, not high pressure, which can damage siding and force water behind it.

What you'll need

• A pressure washer with a soap nozzle and a 25- or 40-degree tip
• Exterior house wash detergent made for pressure washers
• A soft brush on an extension pole
• Plastic sheeting to protect plants

Time

3 to 4 hours

Steps

1. Close all windows and doors. Cover outdoor outlets, light fixtures and delicate plants.
2. Move furniture, grills and decorations away from the walls.
3. Remove window screens and set them aside to wash separately.
4. Fill the pressure washer's detergent tank and apply soap from the bottom of each wall up, so it doesn't streak.
5. Scrub heavily stained or green areas with the soft brush.
6. Let the detergent sit for 5 to 10 minutes, but don't let it dry.
7. Switch to a 25- or 40-degree tip and rinse from the top down. Keep the nozzle at least 2 feet from the surface and spray level or slightly downward, never up under the siding laps.
8. Rinse windows gently with low pressure, or wash them by hand.
9. Uncover plants and outlets, then wash and reinstall the screens.

Shut-off valves under sinks and toilets, and the main valve for the house, can seize up if they're never used. You want to know they work before a leak, not during one.

What you'll need

• A flashlight
• A towel
• An adjustable wrench, for the main valve if it's stiff

Time

20 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Find the main water shut-off for the house. It's usually where the water line enters, often in the basement, garage, utility room or an outdoor box. Make sure everyone in the house knows where it is.
2. Turn the main valve off, then check that a faucet stops running. Turn it back on.
3. Under each sink and behind each toilet, turn the valve off and check that the water stops. Then turn it back on.
4. Have the towel ready. Old valves sometimes drip from the stem after being turned. A small turn to tighten the packing nut behind the handle often stops it.
5. Don't force a stuck valve, since it can break. Have a plumber replace any valve that is stuck, doesn't stop the water or leaks.
6. Write where the main shut-off is in this task's notes.

A garage door is the largest moving object in most homes and can weigh hundreds of pounds. Keeping it clean, tight and lubricated keeps it quiet and safe.

What you'll need

• A socket set or wrench
• Rags
• Garage door lubricant (silicone or white lithium spray). Don't use regular WD-40, which is a cleaner, not a lubricant.

Time

20 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Close the door and unplug the opener.
2. Look over the door, tracks, rollers and hinges for damage or wear.
3. Tighten any loose bolts on the hinges and track brackets.
4. Wipe dirt out of the tracks with a rag. Don't lubricate the tracks themselves.
5. Spray lubricant on the rollers (unless they're nylon with sealed bearings), hinges, springs and the bar above the door.
6. Plug the opener back in and run the door up and down a few times. Listen for grinding or squeaks.
7. Test the auto-reverse: lay a piece of wood flat in the doorway and close the door. It should reverse when it touches the wood. Also check that it reverses when you wave something through the sensor beam.
8. Don't adjust the springs or cables yourself. They're under extreme tension and can cause serious injury. Call a garage door technician if they look worn or the door is hard to lift by hand.

Clean concrete looks better, and removing algae and grime gets rid of slippery spots where someone could fall.

What you'll need

• A broom or leaf blower
• A pressure washer
• A surface cleaner attachment (highly recommended for even results)
• Concrete cleaner or degreaser

Time

2 to 4 hours

Steps

1. Clear everything off the driveway and walks.
2. Sweep or blow off loose dirt and leaves.
3. Pre-treat oil stains with degreaser and let it soak as the label says.
4. Wet the concrete with low pressure, then apply concrete cleaner with the soap nozzle. Work in sections if the area is large.
5. Let the cleaner sit for about 5 minutes without drying.
6. Clean with the surface cleaner, or with a 15- or 25-degree tip held at a steady distance, in long overlapping strokes.
7. Rinse the dirty water off toward the street or lawn.

Termites cause billions of dollars of damage each year, usually unnoticed until it's serious. They're common in warm climates, and a yearly professional inspection catches them early.

What you'll need

• A licensed pest control company
• A flashlight, for your own checks between visits

Time

1 hour for the professional inspection

Steps

1. Book a termite inspection with a licensed pest control company. If you already have a termite contract or bond, schedule its yearly inspection.
2. Between visits, look for warning signs:
   • Mud tubes about the width of a pencil on the foundation, walls or piers
   • Small piles of discarded wings near windows and doors
   • Wood that sounds hollow when tapped, or paint that bubbles
3. Keep mulch, firewood and wood debris away from the foundation, and fix leaks and moisture problems that attract termites.
4. Keep the inspection report and write the date in this task's notes.

Private wells aren't tested by any water utility, so it's up to you to make sure your water is safe. Test once a year, and any time the water's taste, smell or appearance changes.

What you'll need

• A water test kit from a state-certified laboratory. Your local health department can recommend one.
• A flashlight

Time

30 minutes, plus a few days for lab results

Steps

1. Order a test kit and follow its sampling instructions exactly. At a minimum, test for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, pH and total dissolved solids. Ask your health department whether to test for anything common in your area, such as arsenic or radon.
2. Inspect the wellhead. The cap should be secure, undamaged and at least a foot above the ground, with soil sloping away from it.
3. Make sure nothing that could contaminate the water is stored near the well: paint, fertilizer, pesticides, motor oil or fuel.
4. Listen to the pressure tank and pump. Frequent cycling or short bursts of pressure can mean a failing pressure tank.
5. Have a licensed well contractor inspect the pump, pressure tank and wiring if anything seems wrong, or every few years.
6. Keep your test results and write the date in this task's notes.

Small cracks in concrete are common and usually harmless, but some cracks are early signs of foundation movement. A yearly check, with each crack marked and dated, shows you which ones are growing.

What you'll need

• A flashlight
• A tape measure
• A permanent marker
• Your phone, for photos

Time

30 to 45 minutes

Steps

1. Walk around the outside of the house and look at all of the visible foundation.
2. Inside, check the basement or crawl space walls and the garage floor and walls.
3. For each crack, measure its width and length. Mark both ends with the marker and write today's date beside it.
4. Take a photo of each crack with the tape measure next to it.
5. Next year, compare against your marks and photos.
6. Contact a structural engineer if a crack is wider than 1/4 inch, is getting longer or wider, runs horizontally, has a stair-step pattern in block or brick, or one side is higher than the other.
7. Also watch for doors and windows that start sticking, which can be another sign of movement.

Gaps around windows and doors let heated or cooled air escape and make rooms uncomfortable. Finding and sealing drafts before winter is one of the cheapest ways to lower energy bills.

What you'll need

• An incense stick or a thin strip of tissue paper
• Weatherstripping
• Door sweeps
• Interior caulk and a caulk gun

Time

1 to 2 hours

Steps

1. Choose a windy day, or turn on the bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans to pull air through the house.
2. Hold a lit incense stick or the tissue strip near the edges of each window and door. Where the smoke or tissue moves, you have a draft.
3. Also check outlets on exterior walls, the attic hatch and where pipes and wires enter the house.
4. Replace worn or flattened weatherstripping on doors and opening windows.
5. Install or adjust door sweeps so there's no light showing under exterior doors.
6. Caulk gaps between window and door trim and the wall.
7. Add foam gaskets behind the covers of outlets on exterior walls.

Lint collects in the duct between your dryer and the outside of your home. A clogged dryer vent is a leading cause of house fires, and it also makes loads take longer to dry.

What you'll need

• A screwdriver or nut driver for the hose clamps
• A dryer vent cleaning brush kit
• A vacuum
• Foil tape (if the hose needs resealing)

Time

30 to 45 minutes

Steps

1. Unplug the dryer. For a gas dryer, also turn off the gas valve behind it, and take care not to kink or strain the gas line.
2. Pull the dryer out from the wall.
3. Loosen the clamp and pull the vent hose off the back of the dryer.
4. Vacuum lint from the dryer's exhaust opening and the floor behind it.
5. Clean out the hose. If it's thin plastic or foil, replace it with semi-rigid or rigid metal duct, which is safer.
6. Outside, remove the vent cover or open its flap.
7. Work the brush through the duct from both ends, then vacuum out the loosened lint.
8. Put the vent cover back and check that its flap opens and closes freely.
9. Reconnect the hose, tighten the clamp, restore power (and gas) and push the dryer back.
10. Run the dryer and check outside that air is blowing strongly out of the vent.

Gutters carry rainwater away from your foundation. When they're packed with leaves, water spills over and can damage the foundation, siding and basement. Clean them in spring and again after the leaves fall.

What you'll need

• A sturdy ladder and a helper
• Work gloves
• A plastic gutter scoop or small plastic trowel
• A bucket or tarp
• A garden hose with a spray nozzle
• A leaf blower with a gutter attachment (optional, lets you work from the ground)

Time

1 to 3 hours

Steps

1. Lay the tarp under the section you're starting on to catch debris.
2. Set the ladder on firm ground with a helper holding it. Don't lean it against the gutter itself.
3. Scoop out leaves and gunk into the bucket. Use plastic, since metal tools scratch gutters. Move the ladder often instead of reaching.
4. Or, from the ground, use a leaf blower with a gutter attachment to blow out the debris.
5. Flush each gutter with the hose, working toward the downspout.
6. Check that water runs freely out of every downspout. To clear a clog, spray the hose up from the bottom or down from the top.
7. Check that the downspouts empty at least 4 to 6 feet away from the foundation, and that the gutters aren't sagging or pulling loose.

Caulk around tubs and showers dries out and cracks over time. Once it fails, water can get behind the walls and cause rot and mold. Check it once a year and replace it when it's worn.

What you'll need

For the inspection, nothing. To recaulk:

• A plastic putty knife or caulk removal tool
• Rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits, and rags
• 100% silicone kitchen and bath caulk with mildew resistance
• A caulk gun
• Painter's tape (optional, for neat lines)

Time

10 minutes to inspect. 2 to 3 hours to recaulk, plus 24 hours to cure.

Steps

1. Look at every caulked joint around the tub, shower and fixtures. Look for gaps, peeling, cracks or mold that won't clean off.
2. If it all looks sound, you're done.
3. To recaulk, scrape out all the old caulk with the putty knife. New caulk won't stick to old silicone.
4. Wipe the joints with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits to remove residue and soap scum.
5. Let the area dry completely. A fan speeds this up.
6. If you like, run painter's tape along both sides of each joint.
7. Run a steady, even bead of caulk along each joint, then smooth it with a wet finger.
8. Pull off the tape right away, before the caulk skins over.
9. Don't use the tub or shower for 24 hours, or as long as the caulk label says.

Exterior trim around windows and doors takes a beating from sun and rain. Once paint or caulk fails, water soaks in and the wood starts to rot. A yearly check and touch-up prevents a much bigger repair.

What you'll need

• A screwdriver or awl for probing wood
• Exterior caulk and a caulk gun
• Exterior paint and a brush
• Exterior wood filler (for small soft spots)

Time

1 to 2 hours

Steps

1. Walk around the house and look at the trim around each window and door.
2. Look for peeling or cracked paint, gaps in the caulk and dark or stained wood.
3. Press the screwdriver into any suspicious spots. If it sinks in easily, the wood is rotting.
4. Pay extra attention to the bottom corners and sills, where water collects.
5. Recaulk gaps between the trim and the siding, and where trim pieces meet.
6. Fill small soft spots after scraping out the loose wood. Then prime and paint.
7. Replace badly rotted sections, or have a carpenter do it before the wet season.

Creosote, a tar-like residue from burning wood, builds up in the chimney and can catch fire. Cracks in the firebox can let heat reach the wood framing of your home. Inspect before the first fire of the season.

What you'll need

• A flashlight
• A shop vacuum or ash shovel and metal bucket
• A dust mask

Time

20 minutes, plus a chimney sweep visit if needed

Steps

1. Make sure the ashes are completely cold. They can hold heat for days.
2. Scoop or vacuum the ashes into a metal bucket.
3. Check the firebox for cracks, gaps between bricks or missing mortar.
4. Open and close the damper to make sure it moves freely and seals.
5. Shine the flashlight up the flue. Look for shiny, flaky or thick black deposits, nests or anything blocking it.
6. Outside, check that the chimney cap is in place and the bricks look sound.
7. Have a certified chimney sweep inspect and clean the chimney once a year. Call them right away if you see more than a thin layer of soot.

Your roof keeps everything underneath it dry. A yearly look catches storm damage, missing shingles and piled-up debris before they turn into leaks and rot. If you aren't comfortable on a ladder or a roof, inspect from the ground with binoculars or hire a roofer.

What you'll need

• Binoculars
• An extension ladder and a helper, if you'll go up
• Shoes with good grip

Time

30 to 45 minutes

Steps

1. Walk around the house and look at the roof with binoculars. Look for missing, cracked, curling or buckling shingles and bald patches where the granules have worn off.
2. Check the flashing around chimneys, vents and skylights for gaps or lifted edges.
3. If you're going up, set the ladder on firm, level ground with a helper holding it. The top should extend 3 feet above the roof edge.
4. Only walk on the roof when it's dry and not too steep.
5. Clear leaves and debris from valleys and from behind chimneys and skylights, where they trap water.
6. Look for soft or rotting wood around the edges and the chimney.
7. Inside, check the attic and top-floor ceilings for water stains.
8. Call a roofer if you see damage you can't safely fix.

A septic system that's failing can back sewage into your home or yard and costs thousands to repair. A yearly check catches problems early, and a professional can tell you how soon the tank needs pumping.

What you'll need

• A septic service company for a professional inspection
• Your septic system diagram or permit, if you have one

Time

30 minutes for your own check, 1 to 2 hours for a professional inspection

Steps

1. Walk over the tank and drain field. Look for soggy ground, standing water, sewage smells or grass that's much greener than the rest of the lawn.
2. Inside, notice whether drains are slow or gurgling, or toilets are slow to flush.
3. Have a septic professional inspect the tank. They measure the sludge and scum layers and check the baffles, filters and any pumps or alarms.
4. Clean the effluent filter, if the tank has one, or ask the inspector to.
5. Keep vehicles and heavy equipment off the tank and drain field, and don't plant trees nearby.
6. Note the sludge level and any recommendations in this task's notes.

Additives generally aren't needed for a system that's working normally. Regular inspection and pumping are what keep it healthy.

In a cold climate, your outdoor AC unit sits unused all winter. Cleaning it and covering the top keeps ice, falling debris and nesting animals out until spring.

What you'll need

• A leaf blower or soft brush
• Foam pipe insulation, if the refrigerant lines aren't already covered
• A piece of plywood a little larger than the top of the unit, or a breathable top-only cover
• Bricks or other weights

Time

15 to 20 minutes

Steps

1. Turn off the power to the outdoor unit at the shut-off box next to it, or at the breaker.
2. Clear leaves, twigs and dirt from the unit and the ground around it.
3. Check the insulation on the refrigerant lines and replace any that's cracked or missing.
4. Lay the plywood or cover over the top of the unit and weigh it down.
5. Don't wrap the whole unit in plastic. A full cover traps moisture and invites rust and rodents.
6. In spring, remove the cover before you turn the AC back on.

Water left in an outdoor faucet or the pipe behind it can freeze, burst the pipe and flood the wall. Do this before the first freezing night.

What you'll need

• Insulated faucet covers
• A bucket

Time

15 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Disconnect every hose from the outdoor faucets, even frost-free ones. A hose left attached traps water and lets the faucet freeze.
2. If there's an indoor shut-off valve for an outdoor faucet, close it.
3. Open the outdoor faucet and leave it open to drain. If the indoor valve has a small drain cap, open it over the bucket.
4. Drain the hoses and store them somewhere sheltered.
5. If you closed an indoor valve, leave the outdoor faucet open for the winter so any trapped water has room to expand. Otherwise, close it.
6. Put the insulated covers on the faucets.

Water left in sprinkler pipes freezes, expands and cracks pipes, valves and backflow devices. Winterizing before the first hard freeze avoids a costly repair in spring. If you aren't sure you've drained everything, hire an irrigation company once and watch how they do it.

What you'll need

• A basic set of hand tools
• Foam insulation or an insulated cover for the backflow preventer
• An air compressor, if your system is blown out (usually done by a professional)

Time

30 to 60 minutes

Steps

1. Set the controller to Off or rain mode, or turn off its schedules.
2. Shut off the main water valve to the sprinkler system.
3. Drain the system using the method it was built for:
   • Manual drain: open the drain valves at the low points of the system.
   • Automatic drain: these drain themselves when pressure drops. Run a zone briefly with the water off to release the pressure.
   • Blow-out: compressed air pushes water out of each zone. This can damage the system if done wrong, so most people hire a professional.
4. Open the test cocks on the backflow preventer a quarter turn to let water drain out.
5. Insulate the backflow preventer and any above-ground pipes.

Deep cleaning lifts out the dirt that vacuuming leaves behind. It makes carpets last longer and removes odors. You can rent a carpet cleaner from most hardware and grocery stores, though a professional cleaner usually gets better results.

What you'll need

• A vacuum
• A carpet cleaning machine and its cleaning solution
• Spot remover

Time

2 to 4 hours, plus several hours to dry

Steps

1. Move small items and as much furniture as you can out of the rooms you're cleaning.
2. Vacuum thoroughly. The cleaner works far better on carpet with no loose dirt.
3. Treat stains with spot remover, following its label.
4. Fill the machine with cleaning solution and hot water as its instructions describe.
5. Clean in slow, overlapping passes, starting at the far side of the room and working toward the door.
6. Make a second pass with water only to pull out leftover soap, if your machine allows.
7. Open windows or run fans to help it dry. Don't put furniture back until the carpet is dry, or put foil squares under the legs.

Fresh batteries once a year mean your alarms won't fail when you need them, or start chirping at 3 a.m.

What you'll need

• Replacement batteries, usually AA or 9-volt. Check one alarm before you buy.
• A step stool or ladder

Time

15 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Find every smoke and CO alarm in the house.
2. Check whether each one has a replaceable battery. Some have a sealed 10-year battery. Those can't be changed, and the whole alarm is replaced when it reaches its end date.
3. If the battery door isn't on the front, twist the alarm counterclockwise to take it off its base. Hardwired alarms may need the wire connector unclipped.
4. Swap in new batteries, close the door and put the alarm back on its base.
5. Press and hold Test until the alarm sounds.
6. If an alarm still chirps after a new battery, hold Test for about 30 seconds to reset it. If it keeps chirping, check the manufacturer's instructions or replace the alarm.

Natural stone like granite, marble and quartzite is porous. A sealer keeps oil, wine and coffee from soaking in and staining it. A quick water test tells you whether it's time to reseal. Engineered quartz countertops don't need sealing.

What you'll need

• A stone sealer (impregnating sealer for natural stone)
• A pH-neutral stone cleaner or mild dish soap
• Clean, lint-free cloths

Time

1 hour, plus the sealer's cure time

Steps

1. Do the water test. Pour a small puddle of water on the countertop in a few places, including near the sink and stove.
2. Wait 10 to 15 minutes. If the stone darkens under the water, it needs sealing. If the water beads up and the stone doesn't change color, you're done.
3. Clean the countertops thoroughly with stone cleaner and let them dry completely.
4. Apply the sealer evenly, following its label. Usually you spread it on, wait a few minutes for it to soak in and then wipe off the excess.
5. Don't let the sealer dry on the surface, or it leaves a hazy film.
6. Let it cure for as long as the label says, usually several hours to a day, before using the countertops.

A dirty dishwasher filter leaves food on your dishes and makes the machine drain slowly. A monthly clean keeps everything washing properly and smelling fresh.

What you'll need

• A soft brush or old toothbrush
• Dish soap
• Dishwasher cleaner, or 1 cup of white vinegar

Time

10 minutes, plus one wash cycle

Steps

1. Pull out the bottom rack.
2. Find the filter in the floor of the tub. Most twist out counterclockwise. Some also have a flat mesh screen that lifts out.
3. Rinse the filter under hot water and scrub it gently with the brush and a little dish soap.
4. Wipe out any food or debris in the filter housing.
5. Put the filter back and twist it until it locks.
6. Wipe the door gasket and the bottom edge of the door, where grime collects.
7. Run an empty hot cycle with dishwasher cleaner, or with a cup of vinegar standing upright on the top rack.

Detergent residue, lint and moisture build up inside a washing machine and cause musty smells and dingy laundry. This covers the tub, the door gasket and the drain filter.

What you'll need

• Washing machine cleaner tablets, or 2 cups of white vinegar
• Rags or old towels
• A shallow pan or baking dish
• An old toothbrush

Time

20 minutes, plus one wash cycle

Steps

1. Front-loaders: pull back the rubber door gasket and wipe out any hair, lint and grime. Scrub stubborn spots with the toothbrush.
2. Remove the detergent and softener dispenser drawer, if it comes out, and rinse it in hot water.
3. Drain filter (most front-loaders): find the small door at the bottom front. Lay towels down and set the pan under it. Drain the water through the small hose if there is one, then unscrew the filter slowly. Clean out lint and debris, and screw it back in tightly.
4. Run the machine's tub clean cycle, or the hottest, longest cycle, with the cleaner or vinegar and no laundry.
5. Wipe the drum and the door dry when it's done.
6. Leave the door and dispenser drawer slightly open between washes so the inside can dry out.

A water softener can only soften water while it has salt. A quick monthly check keeps it topped up and catches leaks or salt clumps early.

What you'll need

• Water softener salt pellets or crystals
• A broom handle (for breaking up clumps)

Time

10 to 15 minutes

Steps

1. Look over the softener and the pipes going in and out for leaks or drips.
2. Lift the lid of the brine tank, the larger tank that holds the salt.
3. Check the salt level. Keep the tank at least a quarter full, and keep the salt a few inches above the water line.
4. If the salt looks full but the water is still hard, there may be a hard crust (a "salt bridge") with empty space underneath. Push the broom handle down gently to break it up.
5. Add salt as needed. Don't fill it above about two-thirds full.
6. Put the lid back on.

Smoke and carbon monoxide alarms only protect you if they work. A monthly test takes a few minutes and tells you before you need them.

What you'll need

• A step stool or ladder

Time

10 minutes

Steps

1. Let everyone in the house know you're testing, because the alarms are loud.
2. At each alarm, press and hold the Test button until it sounds, then release it.
3. If your alarms are interconnected, check that the others sound too.
4. If an alarm stays silent, replace its batteries and test again. If it's still silent, replace the alarm.
5. Check the date printed on the back of each alarm. Replace smoke alarms after 10 years and CO alarms after 7 years, or sooner if the manufacturer says so.
6. Never disable an alarm, even one that goes off when you cook. Move it or replace it instead.

Expansive clay soil shrinks a lot when it dries out and swells when it's wet. That movement can crack a foundation. Keeping the soil around the house evenly moist through dry months helps stop it. Only homes on expansive clay soil need this. Skip it in rainy weeks, and in seasons when rain does the work for you.

What you'll need

• Soaker hoses laid around the house
• A hose timer (optional)

Time

5 minutes to set up, plus watering time

Steps

1. Lay the soaker hoses 12 to 18 inches out from the foundation, not right against it.
2. Check the soil first. If it's pulled away from the foundation or has cracks in it, it's too dry.
3. Water slowly for 20 to 30 minutes per section, so the water soaks in rather than running off.
4. The goal is soil that stays evenly damp, not wet or muddy. Standing water against the foundation causes its own problems.
5. Water all sides of the house evenly, including the shady sides.
6. Use the timer to make it automatic during long dry spells.

A little regular care keeps your air conditioning cooling well and stops a clogged drain line from flooding a closet or ceiling. You'll treat the indoor drain line and clear debris from the outdoor unit.

What you'll need

• Distilled white vinegar
• A garden hose
• A leaf blower or soft brush (helpful)

Time

20 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Turn the system off at the thermostat.
2. Find the condensate drain line on the indoor unit. It's usually a PVC pipe near the bottom with a capped access port shaped like a T.
3. Remove the cap and pour in about 1 cup of vinegar to keep algae and mold from clogging the line. If there's no access port, pour the vinegar into the drain pan instead.
4. Turn off the power to the outdoor unit (the condenser) at the shut-off box next to it, or at the breaker.
5. Clear leaves, grass and debris from around the unit. Keep plants trimmed back at least 2 feet.
6. Rinse the fins gently with the hose, spraying from the inside out if you can reach. Don't use a pressure washer, since it bends the fins.
7. Restore the power and turn the system back on.

An air purifier can only clean the air when its filters are clean. A clogged filter slows airflow and makes the fan work harder.

What you'll need

• A vacuum with a brush attachment
• A soft cloth
• Replacement filters, if they're due

Time

10 to 15 minutes per purifier

Steps

1. Turn off and unplug the purifier.
2. Wipe the outside and the air intake grille.
3. Remove the pre-filter (the coarse outer mesh). Vacuum it, or rinse it if the manual says it's washable, and let it dry completely.
4. Check the main HEPA filter and carbon filter. Don't wash them unless the manual says they're washable. Replace them if they're dark gray, or if the filter indicator or the manufacturer's schedule says to.
5. Vacuum dust from inside the housing.
6. Reassemble, plug it in and reset the filter indicator if you replaced a filter.
7. Write the filter model in this task's notes.

Supply vents and return grilles collect dust that gets blown back into your rooms. Cleaning them twice a year improves airflow and cuts down on dust.

What you'll need

• A vacuum with a brush attachment and a crevice tool
• A screwdriver
• Dish soap and a soft brush
• Towels

Time

1 to 2 hours, depending on the number of vents

Steps

1. Turn the heating or cooling off at the thermostat.
2. Remove the vent covers and return grilles. Most are held by two screws; floor vents usually lift out.
3. Wash the covers in warm soapy water, scrub with the brush and dry them completely.
4. Vacuum inside each duct opening as far as the crevice tool reaches.
5. Wipe the walls, ceiling or floor around each opening.
6. Put the covers back and turn the system on.
7. If the ducts are full of dust, debris or mold beyond what you can reach, consider hiring a professional duct cleaner.

Bathroom fans pull out moisture that would otherwise lead to mold and peeling paint. Dust builds up quickly in a damp room, and a clogged fan moves much less air.

What you'll need

• A vacuum with a brush attachment
• A soft brush or old toothbrush
• A step stool or ladder
• Dish soap

Time

15 to 20 minutes per fan

Steps

1. Turn off the fan's power at the breaker, not just the wall switch.
2. Pull the cover down gently. Most are held by two spring clips you squeeze to release. Fans with a light may also have a plug to disconnect.
3. Wash the cover in warm soapy water and let it dry.
4. Vacuum the fan blades, motor and housing, using the brush to loosen stuck dust. Don't bend the fan blades.
5. Reinstall the cover and turn the power back on.
6. Turn on the fan and hold a square of toilet paper near it. If the paper isn't drawn up against the cover, the duct may be blocked or disconnected.

Ceiling fans collect a thick layer of dust on top of the blades, and every time they spin they blow some of it around the room.

What you'll need

• An old pillowcase, or an extendable fan duster
• A step stool or ladder
• A damp cloth

Time

5 to 10 minutes per fan

Steps

1. Turn the fan off and let it stop completely.
2. Slide the pillowcase over one blade and pull it back slowly, so the dust stays inside the case.
3. Repeat for each blade. Don't press down hard, as bent blades make a fan wobble.
4. Wipe the motor housing and light fixture with the damp cloth.
5. Shake the pillowcase out outside, then wash it.

Food residue builds up in a garbage disposal and causes odors and sluggish grinding. Ice and salt scrub the grinding chamber clean without any harsh chemicals.

What you'll need

• 2 cups of ice
• 1/2 cup of coarse salt
• Dish soap
• A lemon or other citrus peel (optional)
• A scrub brush or old toothbrush
• Tongs

Time

10 minutes

Steps

1. Turn the disposal off. Never put your hand into a disposal. Use tongs to remove anything stuck in it.
2. Scrub the underside of the rubber splash guard with the brush and dish soap. This is often where the smell comes from.
3. Pour the ice and salt into the disposal.
4. Run cold water at a moderate flow and turn on the disposal until the grinding stops.
5. With the disposal off, add a squirt of dish soap. Run cold water and the disposal for about 30 seconds.
6. For a fresh smell, grind a few small pieces of citrus peel with cold water running.

Grease and dust clog the range hood filter, so the fan pulls less smoke and steam out of your kitchen. A clogged filter is also a fire risk.

What you'll need

• Dish soap
• 1/2 cup of baking soda
• A soft brush
• A sink or tub big enough to submerge the filter

Time

30 to 45 minutes, mostly soaking

Steps

1. Find the filter. On most hoods it's on the underside and pops out with a latch or tab. On over-the-range microwaves, it's usually behind a vent grille on the top front.
2. Check what kind of filter it is. Metal mesh or baffle filters can be cleaned. Charcoal filters (in hoods that don't vent outside) can't be cleaned and need replacing.
3. Fill the sink with the hottest water you can get. Stir in the baking soda and a good squirt of dish soap.
4. Soak the filter for 15 to 20 minutes.
5. Scrub gently with the brush, rinse with hot water and let it dry completely.
6. While it's drying, wipe the inside of the hood.
7. Put the filter back in.

Don't use oven cleaner on aluminum filters. It can discolor and damage them. Many metal filters can also go through the dishwasher; check your manual.

A barrier treatment around the outside of the house every few months keeps ants, spiders, roaches and other insects from moving in. You can hire a pest control company or do it yourself.

What you'll need

• A pest control company, or an outdoor perimeter insecticide and a pump sprayer
• Gloves and eye protection

Time

30 to 60 minutes

Steps

1. If you use a pest control company, schedule the service and make sure they can reach every side of the house.
2. If you're doing it yourself, read the whole product label first and follow it exactly. Keep children and pets away until it has dried.
3. Spray a band about 3 feet up the foundation and 3 feet out onto the ground all the way around the house.
4. Treat around doors, windows, vents and where pipes and wires enter the house.
5. Don't spray on windy days or right before rain.
6. Cut back plants and branches so they don't touch the house, and keep mulch a few inches away from the foundation.
7. Seal gaps around pipes and wires with caulk.

A generator that won't start when the power goes out is no help. Running it regularly under load and keeping the fuel fresh means it's ready when you need it.

What you'll need

• Fresh fuel, ideally ethanol-free, and fuel stabilizer
• Engine oil and an oil filter, if an oil change is due
• A few lamps or a space heater to use as a load

Time

30 to 60 minutes

Steps

1. Look the generator over for damage, rodent nests and chewed wires or fuel lines.
2. Check the oil level. Change the oil and filter if the manual says it's due.
3. Take the generator outside. Never run it in a garage, basement or anywhere near open windows, because the exhaust contains deadly carbon monoxide.
4. Start it and let it warm up for a few minutes.
5. Plug in a load, such as some lamps, and run it for 20 to 30 minutes.
6. Use up the old fuel from your storage cans in your car or lawn equipment. Refill the cans with fresh fuel and add stabilizer.
7. Unplug the load, then turn off the fuel valve and let the engine run until it stops, so no fuel sits in the carburetor.

Mice, rats and squirrels love attics. By the time you hear them, they may already have damaged insulation and chewed wiring. A quick look twice a year catches them early.

What you'll need

• A good flashlight
• A ladder, if you don't have a pull-down attic ladder
• A dust mask and gloves

Time

20 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Climb into the attic. Step only on joists or a floored platform. The ceiling below won't hold your weight.
2. Shine the flashlight across the insulation. Look for tunnels, flattened paths or nests.
3. Look for droppings, which look like small dark pellets. Don't touch or sweep them up, since rodent droppings can carry disease.
4. Check wiring, ducts and wood for chew marks.
5. Look along the roof edges and vents for daylight or gaps where animals could get in.
6. If you find signs of rodents, call a pest control company to remove them and seal the entry points.

A quick look at your propane tank and lines twice a year catches leaks, corrosion and damage early. If you ever smell gas (a rotten-egg smell), don't touch any switches or flames. Leave the area, then call your propane supplier or 911 from a safe distance.

What you'll need

• A spray bottle of soapy water
• A flashlight

Time

20 to 30 minutes

Steps

1. Check the tank's gauge. Most suppliers recommend refilling at about 20 to 30 percent.
2. Look the tank over for rust, dents, bulges or damaged paint.
3. Check that the tank sits level on a solid base, and that the base isn't cracked, sinking or rotting.
4. Check the regulator, valves and visible lines for damage, kinks or corrosion. The regulator vent should be clear and pointing down.
5. Spray soapy water on the valve and line connections. Growing bubbles mean a leak. Close the tank's service valve and call your supplier.
6. Keep the area around the tank clear of plants, debris and anything that can burn.
7. Underground tanks have corrosion protection that needs regular professional testing. Ask your supplier when it's due.
8. Make sure portable cylinders are stored upright, outdoors and secured so they can't tip over.

A clogged filter makes your heating and cooling work harder, wears out the equipment sooner and lets more dust into your home. Buy a good-quality filter rated for at least 3 months. This isn't the place to save a few dollars.

What you'll need

• A new filter in the right size. The size is printed on the edge of the old filter, and often on the unit itself.
• A screwdriver, if your filter sits behind a screwed-on panel

Time

10 to 15 minutes

Steps

1. Turn the system off at the thermostat.
2. Open the filter slot, return grille or access panel.
3. Slide out the old filter. Note which way its airflow arrow points.
4. Slide in the new filter with the arrow pointing the same way, toward the unit and away from the return.
5. Close the panel or grille and turn the system back on.
6. Write the filter size in this task's notes so you buy the right one next time.

GFCI outlets cut the power in a fraction of a second when they sense a fault, which can prevent a serious shock. They can wear out without warning, so test them regularly.

What you'll need

• A small lamp or a plug-in outlet tester
• A non-contact voltage tester (optional)

Time

10 to 15 minutes

Steps

1. Find each GFCI outlet. They have Test and Reset buttons and are usually in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, garages and outdoors.
2. Plug in the lamp or tester and check that it has power.
3. Press Test. The power should cut off and the lamp should go out.
4. Press Reset. The power should come back.
5. If the power doesn't cut off, or won't come back, replace the outlet or call an electrician.
6. One GFCI can protect other outlets further down the circuit. If a regular outlet loses power during the test, that's normal.

Water leak sensors only help if they'll actually alert you. Testing them twice a year confirms the sensors, batteries and alerts all work.

What you'll need

• A damp cloth or a small cup of water
• Replacement batteries, if needed

Time

10 to 20 minutes

Steps

1. Find every leak sensor: usually by the water heater, washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, sinks and sump pump.
2. At each sensor, touch the metal contacts on the bottom with a damp cloth or set the sensor in a little water.
3. Check that it sounds its alarm and, for smart sensors, that the alert reaches your phone.
4. Dry the sensor and put it back with the contacts facing down on the floor.
5. Replace batteries in any sensor that didn't respond or shows a low battery warning.

Solids build up in a septic tank and must be pumped out before they overflow into the drain field, which is very expensive to replace. Most households need pumping every 3 to 5 years, depending on tank size and how many people live there.

What you'll need

• A licensed septic pumping company
• The tank's location. Your yearly inspection or a septic diagram will show where it is.

Time

1 to 2 hours

Steps

1. Book a septic pumping company. Ask whether they'll also inspect the tank and baffles while it's open.
2. Find the tank lid or lids and clear access to them. Some companies will locate and dig them up for an extra fee.
3. Have the tank pumped completely, through the main access lid, not just an inspection port.
4. Ask the technician about the condition of the baffles, inlet, outlet and filter.
5. Keep the receipt and write the date and any findings in this task's notes.
6. If your inspector says the tank fills faster or slower than 3 years, change this task's schedule to match.